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Val Blenio, TI

This isn't an entirely random set of holiday snaps, as there was a purpose to them, and a connection of sorts with Glasgow. 

In the course of work I'd got to know Raymond Ferrari who was a retired fireman (what he didn't tell me, and I only learned as a result of last year's commemoration, is that early in his career he had been lucky to survive the terrible Cheapside disaster). Around that time I was in the habit of spending 2 or 3 late summer weeks in the Swiss Alps, seeing what I could get up, and when I told him this he mentioned that his grandfather had come to Glasgow from Switzerland around the time of the Great War, having been born in the village of Ludiano in the Val Blenio, in the Italian-speaking canton Ticino. Raymond had a hankering to see where his ancestors had lived but domestic circumstances made foreign travel difficult for him, so I offered, when I got the chance, to get myself over there and bring back some photos. 

The chance came in 2001 as September saw some cold and stormy mountain weather in the Alps, and in the Saastal with a week to go I gave up and headed south, walking up the Furggtälli  and over the Antronapass (around the time, though I only heard about it two days later, that the planes were slamming into the WTC) and down into the chunk of Italy which separates the Valais from the Ticino, bliss to get out of that bitter north wind. Then down to Domodossola and a packed and sweltering Centovalli train to Locarno, another train to Bellinzona, and a bus to Biasca, the small town at the foot of the Val Blenio. 
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  • Biasca, Via A. Pini. I wonder who told them I was coming?

This isn't an entirely random set of holiday snaps, as there was a purpose to them, and a connection of sorts with Glasgow.

In the course of work I'd got to know Raymond Ferrari who was a retired fireman (what he didn't tell me, and I only learned as a result of the 2010 commemoration, is that early in his career he had been lucky to be one of the survivors of the terrible Cheapside disaster in 1960). Around that time I was in the habit of spending 2 or 3 late summer weeks in the Swiss Alps, seeing what, if any, mountains I could get up, and when I told him this he mentioned that his grandfather had come to Glasgow from Switzerland around the time of the Great War, having been born in the village of Ludiano in the Val Blenio, in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino. Raymond had a hankering to see where his ancestors had lived but domestic circumstances made foreign travel difficult for him, so I offered, when I got the chance, to get myself over there and bring back some photos.

The chance came in 2001 as September saw some cold and stormy mountain weather in the Alps, and in the Saastal with a week to go I gave up and headed south, walking up the Furggtälli  and over the Antronapass (around the time, though I only heard about it two days later, that the planes were slamming into the WTC) and down into the chunk of Italy which separates the Valais from the Ticino, bliss to get out of that bitter north wind. Then down to Domodossola and a packed and sweltering Centovalli train to Locarno, another train to Bellinzona, and a bus to Biasca, the small town at the foot of the Val Blenio.

    Biasca, Via A. Pini. I wonder who told them I was coming? This isn't an entirely random set of holiday snaps, as there was a purpose to them, and a connection of sorts with Glasgow. In the course of work I'd got to know Raymond Ferrari who was a retired fireman (what he didn't tell me, and I only learned as a result of the 2010 commemoration, is that early in his career he had been lucky to be one of the survivors of the terrible Cheapside disaster in 1960). Around that time I was in the habit of spending 2 or 3 late summer weeks in the Swiss Alps, seeing what, if any, mountains I could get up, and when I told him this he mentioned that his grandfather had come to Glasgow from Switzerland around the time of the Great War, having been born in the village of Ludiano in the Val Blenio, in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino. Raymond had a hankering to see where his ancestors had lived but domestic circumstances made foreign travel difficult for him, so I offered, when I got the chance, to get myself over there and bring back some photos. The chance came in 2001 as September saw some cold and stormy mountain weather in the Alps, and in the Saastal with a week to go I gave up and headed south, walking up the Furggtälli and over the Antronapass (around the time, though I only heard about it two days later, that the planes were slamming into the WTC) and down into the chunk of Italy which separates the Valais from the Ticino, bliss to get out of that bitter north wind. Then down to Domodossola and a packed and sweltering Centovalli train to Locarno, another train to Bellinzona, and a bus to Biasca, the small town at the foot of the Val Blenio.

  • Biasca stands at the convergence of two valleys, the steep narrow one on the left being the Valle Leventina which carries the mainline railway and the busy E35 to the Gotthard Tunnels and on to northern Europe. The Val Blenio, to the right, which leads to the relatively minor road pass of Lukmanier/Lucomagna, remains in contrast quiet and pastoral. The big modern church (well, 1900ish, that's modern for a church around here) is the Rotondo di San Carlo.

    Biasca stands at the convergence of two valleys, the steep narrow one on the left being the Valle Leventina which carries the mainline railway and the busy E35 to the Gotthard Tunnels and on to northern Europe. The Val Blenio, to the right, which leads to the relatively minor road pass of Lukmanier/Lucomagna, remains in contrast quiet and pastoral. The big modern church (well, 1900ish, that's modern for a church around here) is the Rotondo di San Carlo.

  • The 13th century San Pietro e Paolo looks down on the town.

    The 13th century San Pietro e Paolo looks down on the town.

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  • I was on the lookout for some Ferrari family traces.

    I was on the lookout for some Ferrari family traces.

  • In the Leventina direction.

    In the Leventina direction.

  • In the Blenio direction.

    In the Blenio direction.

  • I got a bus to Dangio, about 6 miles above Ludiano as I wanted to visit the Adula Hut of the Swiss Alpine Club, and the shortest path starts from here. 16th century Oratorio di Sant'Ambrogio, and the impressive peak of Sosto.

    I got a bus to Dangio, about 6 miles above Ludiano as I wanted to visit the Adula Hut of the Swiss Alpine Club, and the shortest path starts from here. 16th century Oratorio di Sant'Ambrogio, and the impressive peak of Sosto.

  • The former Cima Norma chocolate factory, between Dangio and the neighbouring village of Torre. There had been in the valley a long tradition of chocolate making as a cottage industry (the expertise learned in Milan), and in 1903 the Cima family rebuilt a former brewery to start production on a grander scale. The works had a troubled early history, badly damaged in 1908 by a devastating flood in the Val Soi behind the factory, and again in 1915 by a fire which started in the cocoa-roasting plant. Twice rebuilt, and ownership having passed to the Pagani family (noted restaurateurs – Pagani's was a leading London restaurant between the wars), it prospered for a while, reaching in the 1950s a peak annual production of 1500 tons of chocolate, with 340 employees, but, over-reliant on a single contract with a retail chain which was was terminated, the factory was shut down in 1968.

    The former Cima Norma chocolate factory, between Dangio and the neighbouring village of Torre. There had been in the valley a long tradition of chocolate making as a cottage industry (the expertise learned in Milan), and in 1903 the Cima family rebuilt a former brewery to start production on a grander scale. The works had a troubled early history, badly damaged in 1908 by a devastating flood in the Val Soi behind the factory, and again in 1915 by a fire which started in the cocoa-roasting plant. Twice rebuilt, and ownership having passed to the Pagani family (noted restaurateurs – Pagani's was a leading London restaurant between the wars), it prospered for a while, reaching in the 1950s a peak annual production of 1500 tons of chocolate, with 340 employees, but, over-reliant on a single contract with a retail chain which was was terminated, the factory was shut down in 1968.

  • The 13th century San Pietro of Motto di Dongio, a few hundred yards north of Ludiano.

    The 13th century San Pietro of Motto di Dongio, a few hundred yards north of Ludiano.

  • More Ferraris in the churchyard.

    More Ferraris in the churchyard.

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  • Ludiano, with Malvaglia across the valley.

    Ludiano, with Malvaglia across the valley.

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  • Ludiano seemed to have a little domestic vineyard round every corner.

    Ludiano seemed to have a little domestic vineyard round every corner.

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  • Town House (maybe, not sure about that) and San Secondo church.

    Town House (maybe, not sure about that) and San Secondo church.

  • San Secondo was founded in the 13th century but was rebuilt (except for the tower) around 1780 in a surprisingly lavish Rococo style.

    San Secondo was founded in the 13th century but was rebuilt (except for the tower) around 1780 in a surprisingly lavish Rococo style.

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  • Lots more Ferraris.

    Lots more Ferraris.

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  • If there's a shop of any kind in Ludiano I couldn't find it, but there is the Trattoria Beltrami. Beltrami is another Bleniese name, and I believe the grandfather of Joe Beltrami ( for many years Glasgow's most high-profile criminal lawyer - 'Get Me Beltrami' was something of a Glasgow underworld  mantra) came from Ludiano too, and at around the same time.

    If there's a shop of any kind in Ludiano I couldn't find it, but there is the Trattoria Beltrami. Beltrami is another Bleniese name, and I believe the grandfather of Joe Beltrami ( for many years Glasgow's most high-profile criminal lawyer - 'Get Me Beltrami' was something of a Glasgow underworld mantra) came from Ludiano too, and at around the same time.

  • Some random views of Ludiano before I headed back to Biasca and a tortuous homeward journey.

    Some random views of Ludiano before I headed back to Biasca and a tortuous homeward journey.

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    In the Blenio direction.
    I got a bus to Dangio, about 6 miles above Ludiano as I wanted to visit the Adula Hut of the Swiss Alpine Club, and the shortest path starts from here. 16th century Oratorio di Sant'Ambrogio, and the impressive peak of Sosto.
    The former Cima Norma chocolate factory, between Dangio and the neighbouring village of Torre. There had been in the valley a long tradition of chocolate making as a cottage industry (the expertise learned in Milan), and in 1903 the Cima family rebuilt a former brewery to start production on a grander scale. The works had a troubled early history, badly damaged in 1908 by a devastating flood in the Val Soi behind the factory, and again in 1915 by a fire which started in the cocoa-roasting plant. Twice rebuilt, and ownership having passed to the Pagani family (noted restaurateurs – Pagani's was a leading London restaurant between the wars), it prospered for a while, reaching in the 1950s a peak annual production of 1500 tons of chocolate, with 340 employees, but, over-reliant on a single contract with a retail chain which was was terminated, the factory was shut down in 1968.