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  1. the Scottish mountains

Western Highlands

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  • Easter Stoul and Loch Nevis.

8pm, 7/6/82

    Easter Stoul and Loch Nevis. 8pm, 7/6/82

  • Loch Nevis from Easter Stoul.

7am, 8/6/82

    Loch Nevis from Easter Stoul. 7am, 8/6/82

  • Knoydart volcanoes? Ben Aden, Sgurr Mor, and Sgurr na Ciche from Meall Buidhe.

11am, 9/6/82

    Knoydart volcanoes? Ben Aden, Sgurr Mor, and Sgurr na Ciche from Meall Buidhe. 11am, 9/6/82

  • Loch Nevis at Kylesmorar, with Ben Aden and Sgurr na Ciche.

3pm, 15/6/87

    Loch Nevis at Kylesmorar, with Ben Aden and Sgurr na Ciche. 3pm, 15/6/87

  • Loch Nevis - MV Western Isles passing Kylesmorar 

4pm, 15/6/87

~ She has to thread a careful course through the kyle at low tide.

    Loch Nevis - MV Western Isles passing Kylesmorar 4pm, 15/6/87 ~ She has to thread a careful course through the kyle at low tide.

  • On Spidean Mialach, waiting for a view.11am, 4/4/83
Easter weekend in  Glen Shiel, and it was a bit wintry. There was a brief weather-window Sat. night/Sun. morning, and I nipped up Sgurr na Carnach and Sgurr nan Fhuaran early enough to get down before a major dump of snow arrived on cue around mid-day, and early enough to flee south over the Loch Loyne high road while it was still clear, then out to Loch Quoich to see what the morrow would bring.
It was overcast but dry, and with the pressure rising a walk over the Spidean and Gleouraich seemed worthwhile, if heavy going. By mid-day the clouds had shredded, producing an afternoon finer than I could have imagined, a joyous romp through deep untrodden snow in brilliant sunshine, the views to the golden west, the fantastic confections of drift and cornice, achingly lovely. Back down in the green world of new-born lambs, a deeply satisfied streapadair.

    On Spidean Mialach, waiting for a view.11am, 4/4/83 Easter weekend in Glen Shiel, and it was a bit wintry. There was a brief weather-window Sat. night/Sun. morning, and I nipped up Sgurr na Carnach and Sgurr nan Fhuaran early enough to get down before a major dump of snow arrived on cue around mid-day, and early enough to flee south over the Loch Loyne high road while it was still clear, then out to Loch Quoich to see what the morrow would bring. It was overcast but dry, and with the pressure rising a walk over the Spidean and Gleouraich seemed worthwhile, if heavy going. By mid-day the clouds had shredded, producing an afternoon finer than I could have imagined, a joyous romp through deep untrodden snow in brilliant sunshine, the views to the golden west, the fantastic confections of drift and cornice, achingly lovely. Back down in the green world of new-born lambs, a deeply satisfied streapadair.

  • On Spidean Mialach, cold front clearing.

mid-day, 4/4/83

    On Spidean Mialach, cold front clearing. mid-day, 4/4/83

  • Sgurr Mor and Sgurr na Ciche - the view I was waiting for.

mid-day, 4/4/83

    Sgurr Mor and Sgurr na Ciche - the view I was waiting for. mid-day, 4/4/83

  • Gleouraich from Spidean Mialach.

1pm, 4/4/83

    Gleouraich from Spidean Mialach. 1pm, 4/4/83

  • Fresh snow on Gleouraich.

2pm, 4/4/83

    Fresh snow on Gleouraich. 2pm, 4/4/83

  • Sgurr Thuilm from the Bealach a'Chinn-bhric.

3pm, 25/02/95

~ From Strathan over to Kinbreack for a few nights and a hill or two.

    Sgurr Thuilm from the Bealach a'Chinn-bhric. 3pm, 25/02/95 ~ From Strathan over to Kinbreack for a few nights and a hill or two.

  • Gairich from Kinbreack.

4.30pm, 25/02/95

    Gairich from Kinbreack. 4.30pm, 25/02/95

  • Druim a'Chuirn from the northern slopes of Fraoch Bheinn.

9.30am, 26/02/95

~ In the event, just the one hill, Fraoch Bheinn. The weather,  bitterly cold, was fine enough on the ascent, but by the time I got to the top the leading edge of a warm front was encroaching and it was snowing heavily. I beat it down to the bealach and scratched around for some bogwood to heat the perishing bothy.

The snow continued till after dark, but  by morning it had turned to rain, the temperature 12°C higher and a massive thaw under way. By late afternoon the glen below was an impressive and sobering sight, an inland sea whose far shores were lost in the mist.

Back by  Loch Arkaig the next day, spring had arrived.

    Druim a'Chuirn from the northern slopes of Fraoch Bheinn. 9.30am, 26/02/95 ~ In the event, just the one hill, Fraoch Bheinn. The weather, bitterly cold, was fine enough on the ascent, but by the time I got to the top the leading edge of a warm front was encroaching and it was snowing heavily. I beat it down to the bealach and scratched around for some bogwood to heat the perishing bothy. The snow continued till after dark, but by morning it had turned to rain, the temperature 12°C higher and a massive thaw under way. By late afternoon the glen below was an impressive and sobering sight, an inland sea whose far shores were lost in the mist. Back by Loch Arkaig the next day, spring had arrived.

  • Gulvain from Beinn an Tuim.

2pm, 3/1/86

    Gulvain from Beinn an Tuim. 2pm, 3/1/86

  • Winter sunset on Loch Shiel, from Beinn an Tuim.

3.30pm, 03/01/86

    Winter sunset on Loch Shiel, from Beinn an Tuim. 3.30pm, 03/01/86

  • Winter dawn, Gleann Dubh Lighe.

8.30am, 4/1/86

    Winter dawn, Gleann Dubh Lighe. 8.30am, 4/1/86

  • Stob Coire nan Cearc from the S ridge of Streap Comhlaidh.

9am, 5/1/86

    Stob Coire nan Cearc from the S ridge of Streap Comhlaidh. 9am, 5/1/86

  • My tracks from Streap Comhlaidh to Streap.

11am, 5/1/86

    My tracks from Streap Comhlaidh to Streap. 11am, 5/1/86

  • Streap from Streap Comhlaidh. 
  
12.30pn, 5/1/86

~ Only posing at going up - coming down in fact.

    Streap from Streap Comhlaidh. 12.30pn, 5/1/86 ~ Only posing at going up - coming down in fact.

  • Gulvain from Streap Comhlaidh.

1pm, 5/1/86

    Gulvain from Streap Comhlaidh. 1pm, 5/1/86

  • The Streaps from Gleann Dubh Lighe.

2.30pm, 5/1/86

    The Streaps from Gleann Dubh Lighe. 2.30pm, 5/1/86

  • Eigg and the Sound of Arisaig from an Stac.

8pm, 20/07/91

    Eigg and the Sound of Arisaig from an Stac. 8pm, 20/07/91

  • Ben More of Mull from Rois-bheinn, moonlight glinting on Lochs Shiel and Sunart.

midnight, 20-21/07/91

    Ben More of Mull from Rois-bheinn, moonlight glinting on Lochs Shiel and Sunart. midnight, 20-21/07/91

  • Sgurr Thuilm and the Streaps, from Rois-bheinn.

7am, 21/07/91

    Sgurr Thuilm and the Streaps, from Rois-bheinn. 7am, 21/07/91

  • The Akto on a ruddy Rois-bheinn, just before sunset.9.50pm, 22/07/00~ Sgurr na Ciche and the Glenfinnan Sgurr nan Coireachain are the most prominent skyline peaks, an  Stac the proximate lump. With a railway station (Lochailort, Glenfinnan) at each end, and a succession of views, both montane and maritime, as fine as any in the country, the traverse of the Moidart Corbetts can give a weekend trip of rare quality, all the more so if a small tent is carried.The weather this weekend verged on the excessively good, and left me wishing I could bottle some  and keep it for later. The train got into Lochailort about 1pm, the lanes and hedges of Inverailort shimmering, and the heat as I walked sun-facing up the Coire a' Bhùiridh was merciless - I did some mental calculation and reckoned I could spare two hours  before heading over an Stac and on to Rois-bheinn in good time for the sunset, so I put up the Akto pro tem., splashed it and myself with water, and crawled into its shade.An Stac at 6.30, the tent up on Rois-bheinn by 8, and all was well with the world.I'd hoped to get moving seriously early the next morning, in self-defence, and 6.30 was far too late, but  luckily a sheet of high cloud was filtering out most of the direct sunlight, which made for delightful progress. However, by Druim Fiaclach this had more or less burnt off, and from there on it was a purgatory-in-paradise, over Beinn Mhic Cèdidh and on to the Beinn Odhars.The details of how I got down to Glenfinnan are lost in a haze  of heat, but I suspect, since the easiest descent involves a final 3 miles of road to the station, that I went down the Coire Odhar, over by Lochan nan Sleubhaich and down by the Allt na h-Aire. The crossing of the Abhainn Shlatach must have been easy as I have no memory of it either, but one thing I do recall is being profoundly grateful that I didn't have to drive back to Glasgow.

    The Akto on a ruddy Rois-bheinn, just before sunset.9.50pm, 22/07/00~ Sgurr na Ciche and the Glenfinnan Sgurr nan Coireachain are the most prominent skyline peaks, an Stac the proximate lump. With a railway station (Lochailort, Glenfinnan) at each end, and a succession of views, both montane and maritime, as fine as any in the country, the traverse of the Moidart Corbetts can give a weekend trip of rare quality, all the more so if a small tent is carried.The weather this weekend verged on the excessively good, and left me wishing I could bottle some and keep it for later. The train got into Lochailort about 1pm, the lanes and hedges of Inverailort shimmering, and the heat as I walked sun-facing up the Coire a' Bhùiridh was merciless - I did some mental calculation and reckoned I could spare two hours before heading over an Stac and on to Rois-bheinn in good time for the sunset, so I put up the Akto pro tem., splashed it and myself with water, and crawled into its shade.An Stac at 6.30, the tent up on Rois-bheinn by 8, and all was well with the world.I'd hoped to get moving seriously early the next morning, in self-defence, and 6.30 was far too late, but luckily a sheet of high cloud was filtering out most of the direct sunlight, which made for delightful progress. However, by Druim Fiaclach this had more or less burnt off, and from there on it was a purgatory-in-paradise, over Beinn Mhic Cèdidh and on to the Beinn Odhars.The details of how I got down to Glenfinnan are lost in a haze of heat, but I suspect, since the easiest descent involves a final 3 miles of road to the station, that I went down the Coire Odhar, over by Lochan nan Sleubhaich and down by the Allt na h-Aire. The crossing of the Abhainn Shlatach must have been easy as I have no memory of it either, but one thing I do recall is being profoundly grateful that I didn't have to drive back to Glasgow.

  • Sunset between Rum and Skye, from Rois-bheinn.

10pm, 22/07/00

    Sunset between Rum and Skye, from Rois-bheinn. 10pm, 22/07/00

  • Northeast from Sgurr na Bà Glaise.

7.30am, 23/07/00

    Northeast from Sgurr na Bà Glaise. 7.30am, 23/07/00

  • Towards Ben Nevis, from Sgurr na Bà Glaise.

7.30am, 23/07/00

    Towards Ben Nevis, from Sgurr na Bà Glaise. 7.30am, 23/07/00

  • Rois-bheinn from Druim Fiaclach.

8.30 am, 23/07/00

    Rois-bheinn from Druim Fiaclach. 8.30 am, 23/07/00

  • From Druim Fiaclach to Ben Nevis.

8.45am, 23/07/00

 ~ looking down Coire Reidh to Glen Aladale, then over the shoulder of Beinn Odhar Bheag.

    From Druim Fiaclach to Ben Nevis. 8.45am, 23/07/00 ~ looking down Coire Reidh to Glen Aladale, then over the shoulder of Beinn Odhar Bheag.

  • Loch Shiel from Beinn Odhar Bheag.

1pm, 23/07/00

    Loch Shiel from Beinn Odhar Bheag. 1pm, 23/07/00

  • Loch Morar from the W end of Carn Mor.

4pm, 1/6/85

    Loch Morar from the W end of Carn Mor. 4pm, 1/6/85

  • Old cultivation strips  at Kinlochmorar, from Druim Ile Coire of Carn Mor.5pm, 01/06/85~ The DOVE:   8th June 1801:  FORT WILLIAM to PICTOU, NOVA SCOTIA with 219 passengers ~ among whom were
       
      EWEN CAMERON: Former residence: KINLOCHMORAR
         Children:
            DONALD
            JAMES
            RODERICK
            ELIZABETH (14 years) 
            MARY (4 years)
            MARGARET (3 years)
            CHRISTIAN (1 year)
A widower, presumably - other family heads on this emigrant ship are listed with their wives. Did Mrs Cameron die from complications, or exhaustion, during the birth of her seventh (at least) child? Was it the final blow for a man toiling to wrest a living for his family from this thin sour soil? And lead him, by no means a young man, to take them on an unimaginable journey to a new continent? What immense strength of character Ewen Cameron must have had, both to live on this land, and then to leave it.Speculation, of course. This croft may not even have been his, as there are a few other ruins, down by the lodge (also a ruin) and further on by the loch-side, but whoever it was who laboured here did so heroically - every scrap of usable land between bog and rock has been worked, something which could not have been done without enormous physical effort.

We who for pleasure and recreation walk these hills and glens ought to bow our heads and pay homage to these people.

    Old cultivation strips at Kinlochmorar, from Druim Ile Coire of Carn Mor.5pm, 01/06/85~ The DOVE: 8th June 1801: FORT WILLIAM to PICTOU, NOVA SCOTIA with 219 passengers ~ among whom were EWEN CAMERON: Former residence: KINLOCHMORAR Children: DONALD JAMES RODERICK ELIZABETH (14 years) MARY (4 years) MARGARET (3 years) CHRISTIAN (1 year) A widower, presumably - other family heads on this emigrant ship are listed with their wives. Did Mrs Cameron die from complications, or exhaustion, during the birth of her seventh (at least) child? Was it the final blow for a man toiling to wrest a living for his family from this thin sour soil? And lead him, by no means a young man, to take them on an unimaginable journey to a new continent? What immense strength of character Ewen Cameron must have had, both to live on this land, and then to leave it.Speculation, of course. This croft may not even have been his, as there are a few other ruins, down by the lodge (also a ruin) and further on by the loch-side, but whoever it was who laboured here did so heroically - every scrap of usable land between bog and rock has been worked, something which could not have been done without enormous physical effort. We who for pleasure and recreation walk these hills and glens ought to bow our heads and pay homage to these people.

  • The Little Mermaid of Barrisdale.

11pm, 07/06/92

~ Having to dodge the heat in Knoydart was, for me at least, a novel and so far unrepeated experience. We set off from Kinlochhourn in the cool (that was the theory anyway) of the evening, and arrived at Barrisdale some time after sunset, a half-moon poised neatly on Stob a'Chearcaill.

    The Little Mermaid of Barrisdale. 11pm, 07/06/92 ~ Having to dodge the heat in Knoydart was, for me at least, a novel and so far unrepeated experience. We set off from Kinlochhourn in the cool (that was the theory anyway) of the evening, and arrived at Barrisdale some time after sunset, a half-moon poised neatly on Stob a'Chearcaill.

  • Evening on Barrisdale Bay. 

10pm, 09/06/92

~ Doesn't show the midges.

    Evening on Barrisdale Bay. 10pm, 09/06/92 ~ Doesn't show the midges.

  • In Coire Dhorcaill of Ladhar Bheinn.

9.30am, 10/06/92

    In Coire Dhorcaill of Ladhar Bheinn. 9.30am, 10/06/92

  • Bivvy on am Bathaich of Sgurr a'Mhaoraich.

11pm, 12/06/92

~ K is tough and doesn't need a tent - just as long as she gets a nice cuppa . . .

    Bivvy on am Bathaich of Sgurr a'Mhaoraich. 11pm, 12/06/92 ~ K is tough and doesn't need a tent - just as long as she gets a nice cuppa . . .

  • The Beinn Odhars from Sgorr Craobh a'Chaorainn.

2pm, 04/11/90

~ I felt that Ghiubhsachain and his mates owed me one, after having given me an awful hammering in the radioactive rain of May 1986, and this crisp November day was payback time.

By bike from the A830 to Guesachan Cottage, and a fine clockwise circuit of the knobbly horseshoe.

    The Beinn Odhars from Sgorr Craobh a'Chaorainn. 2pm, 04/11/90 ~ I felt that Ghiubhsachain and his mates owed me one, after having given me an awful hammering in the radioactive rain of May 1986, and this crisp November day was payback time. By bike from the A830 to Guesachan Cottage, and a fine clockwise circuit of the knobbly horseshoe.

  • The cairn on Sgurr Ghiubhsachain.

3pm, 04/11/90

    The cairn on Sgurr Ghiubhsachain. 3pm, 04/11/90

  • The head of Loch Shiel, from Meall nan Creag Leac.

4pm,  04/11/90

I had guessed from the map that Meall Creag nan Leac might give a (possibly unique) view up and down the whole length of Loch Shiel, so I headed out to it for the last half-hour of sunshine. The sunset was what I had in mind, but it was a poor one, with the play of light on the hills to the north-east much more rewarding.

    The head of Loch Shiel, from Meall nan Creag Leac. 4pm, 04/11/90 I had guessed from the map that Meall Creag nan Leac might give a (possibly unique) view up and down the whole length of Loch Shiel, so I headed out to it for the last half-hour of sunshine. The sunset was what I had in mind, but it was a poor one, with the play of light on the hills to the north-east much more rewarding.

  • Glenfinnan hills from Meall Creag nan Leac.

4pm, 04/11/90

    Glenfinnan hills from Meall Creag nan Leac. 4pm, 04/11/90

  • Retrospect from the Carn Ghluasaid path.

11am, 21/4/85

 ~ This was a simple two-day trip - from Loch Cluanie over to Glen Affric, a night in a bothy, and back again. Nothing very significant or memorable happened, but it was full of small pleasures and I recall it with the greatest affection. Spring weather at its vibrant best graced the first day, by this splendid stalkers' path on to Carn Ghluasaid, then over Conbhairean and Sail Chaorainn and out to Tigh Mor. The conditions, better conveyed by the photographs than in words, made it an easy decision to stay high and take in the Corbett of Carn a'Choire Ghairbh before picking up the path down by the Allt Garbh to White Cottage.

The next morning was still and overcast, and with a better than even-money chance of an inversion (I thought) I set off early with high hopes, trotting down to Gleann na Ciche  and up on to the Mullach by the shorter of its NE ridges. Sadly, if there was an inversion its ceiling was well above 1100m, and I never got a sniff of a view on the ridge to a'Chralaig, or until well down its SE shoulder. Ah well, can't win 'em all.

    Retrospect from the Carn Ghluasaid path. 11am, 21/4/85 ~ This was a simple two-day trip - from Loch Cluanie over to Glen Affric, a night in a bothy, and back again. Nothing very significant or memorable happened, but it was full of small pleasures and I recall it with the greatest affection. Spring weather at its vibrant best graced the first day, by this splendid stalkers' path on to Carn Ghluasaid, then over Conbhairean and Sail Chaorainn and out to Tigh Mor. The conditions, better conveyed by the photographs than in words, made it an easy decision to stay high and take in the Corbett of Carn a'Choire Ghairbh before picking up the path down by the Allt Garbh to White Cottage. The next morning was still and overcast, and with a better than even-money chance of an inversion (I thought) I set off early with high hopes, trotting down to Gleann na Ciche and up on to the Mullach by the shorter of its NE ridges. Sadly, if there was an inversion its ceiling was well above 1100m, and I never got a sniff of a view on the ridge to a'Chralaig, or until well down its SE shoulder. Ah well, can't win 'em all.

  • Carn Ghluasaid from the north-west.

mid-day, 21/04/85

    Carn Ghluasaid from the north-west. mid-day, 21/04/85

  • SSW to W panorama from Sgurr nan Conbhairean.

12.30pm, 21/4/85

    SSW to W panorama from Sgurr nan Conbhairean. 12.30pm, 21/4/85

  • Satin and lace. 

1pm, 21/4/85

~ Spindrift blown upwards from the NE corrie of Sgurr nan Conbhairean.

    Satin and lace. 1pm, 21/4/85 ~ Spindrift blown upwards from the NE corrie of Sgurr nan Conbhairean.

  • Sgurr nan Conbhairean.

2pm, 21/4/85

 ~ (Right leg crossed over left knee. Not doing a horizontal dance.)

    Sgurr nan Conbhairean. 2pm, 21/4/85 ~ (Right leg crossed over left knee. Not doing a horizontal dance.)

  • Remains of a substantial bothy high on the northern slopes of Tigh Mor na Seilge.3pm, 21/04/85~ A well-built drystone two-chambered (bothy and stable?) construction, about which I have been able to discover absolutely nothing. I have spoken to no-one who has seen it.  If it wasn't for this photo I would suspect it had been part of a dream."Tigh Mor na Seilge" means Big House of the Hunting, and I would suggest  that the name derives from this building (Peter Drummond, Scottish Hill and Mountain Names, doesn't consider this possibility). There's another example on the other side of the country - Carn a' Bhutha (Cairn of the Hut), the SW top of Carn Bhac, has a similar ruin, smaller but equally obscure and unmapped.

    Remains of a substantial bothy high on the northern slopes of Tigh Mor na Seilge.3pm, 21/04/85~ A well-built drystone two-chambered (bothy and stable?) construction, about which I have been able to discover absolutely nothing. I have spoken to no-one who has seen it. If it wasn't for this photo I would suspect it had been part of a dream."Tigh Mor na Seilge" means Big House of the Hunting, and I would suggest that the name derives from this building (Peter Drummond, Scottish Hill and Mountain Names, doesn't consider this possibility). There's another example on the other side of the country - Carn a' Bhutha (Cairn of the Hut), the SW top of Carn Bhac, has a similar ruin, smaller but equally obscure and unmapped.

  • A'Chralaig and Mullach Fraoch-choire from Carn a'Choire Ghairbh.

4pm, 21/04/85

    A'Chralaig and Mullach Fraoch-choire from Carn a'Choire Ghairbh. 4pm, 21/04/85

  • Upper Glen Affric, Beinn Fhada and Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan, from Carn Glas Iochdarach.

4.30pm, 21/04/85

    Upper Glen Affric, Beinn Fhada and Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan, from Carn Glas Iochdarach. 4.30pm, 21/04/85

  • White Cottage, Glen Affric.

5.30pm, 21/04/85

 . . . when it was a bothy. It isn't now.

    White Cottage, Glen Affric. 5.30pm, 21/04/85 . . . when it was a bothy. It isn't now.

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    Loch Nevis from Easter Stoul.

7am, 8/6/82
    Knoydart volcanoes? Ben Aden, Sgurr Mor, and Sgurr na Ciche from Meall Buidhe.

11am, 9/6/82
    Loch Nevis at Kylesmorar, with Ben Aden and Sgurr na Ciche.

3pm, 15/6/87