Crest of the Paradiso. Gran Paradiso is a lovely mountain with wonderful views, but enjoyment of the normal route is compromised by its popularity. As the only 4000m peak entirely in Italy, it is one which every red-blooded Italian feels compelled to climb at least once in a lifetime, and a fine summer day will see a substantial number of them trudging up from the Emanuele. The alternative western approach from the Chabod hut, slightly longer and crossing the more hazardous Laveciau glacier, is much quieter - until it joins the voie normale at around 3500m. 9.30am, 28/07/10
In descent. 10.15, 28/07/10
Snow still good and firm. 10.15am, 28/07/10